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Tools
Nail Guns

I bought a Paslode framing nailer for this job. I've got one thing to say about this nailer it's heavy!
Weight becomes all important once you've held up a 2x10 with 1 hand and the nailer in the other
trying to put that fastener in. Of course you learn that you should nail in cleats(blocks of wood) to
help give you a "hand." Still this gun is too heavy and had I to do over again I would factor in
weight as a big consideration.

Makita makes a lightweight coil nailer that would be high on my list. I have the siding(thought I was
buying an all purpose nailer, Doh!) version of this nailer and am very pleased with it's weight and
nail holding capacity. It can be a bit finicky with the feeding mechanism, but not too the point of
detriment.

Hammer

Hammers in bright colors are always helpful with a long handle for pulling nails. You'll also need a
rubber mallet and a sledge hammer. A pry bar is also a necessity capable of pulling nails.

Laser Level

I would buy a rotating laser level with a bright beam or witha laser detector. I bought a PLS 5
thinking I would save some money. Wrong! This laser only emits dots. which are difficult to find
at a distance. But this tool did allow me to level and square almost my house. I was off a 1/4"
from square.  

I bought a PLS5 I thought that it would prove to be the best of all worlds. Something I could use for
footer layout and interior construction. I also purchased the detector for this unit.

Results: I was able to do my footer layout and leveling, as well a few other things plumb and
square, but I have not used my detector at all yet and I can't recommend this laser because of it's
price and some functionality.

I was under the impression that it provided a laser scan line for all axis, and instead just provides a
dot. Although my fault for believing this with  the price I believe it should have had at least an x an y
scan line.

It is more accurate and brighter than many lasers, but some of the better ones at Home Depot. I
think would be better.

I would recommend the detector though. With this you could buy a "weak" rotating laser and still
use it even in bright
daylight.

Tape Measure
You will probably need at least 3 tape measure one being a 100ft" rolling type. Two about 30ft.
long. Fat Max is good. You need 2 because you'll lose at least one 5 times a day. Also don't buy
the top of the line because you'll surely ruin at least one or two before your house is done. Mainly
concrete, rain, and dirt. You can spray liberal amounts of WD40 to revive them from the dead once
or twice.

Drills
The drill I have used the most is my makes 12v Impact drill. It size and weight are fantastic and I'm
able to get into many tight places that my other drill just won't get to. It's hammering also gives it
plenty of driving power. My impact can drive through all my floor joists and back with 7/8" Irwin
speed bit(excellent bit).

I also use a half inch corded drill, for some serious continuous drilling.

I picked up a great Milwaukee hammer drill for drilling into concrete for $40 at a local pawn shop.
The ease at which this tool will penetrate concrete will make it the only tool you ever use for such a
thing. Previously I was using my corded 1/2" drill.

Ladders
The little giant was very useful. It is extremely stable, though heavy. It also can be a bit bouncy
when fully extended. However, I was always confident that I had steady support. I could use it on
stairs and also take it apart to have 2 ladders.

I pulled the folding ladder from my neighbors trash and fell in love with it almost immediately. It
allows you to work on ceilings in large sections without having to get down and move the ladder.
Combine that with one more ladder and you can cross an entire room.

Sawzall
You can't live without this. You will more than once complete saw apart something you've just nailed
together for life. I've done this numerous times. Get the extra long blades as well as the short. Also
there is an attachment that offsets the blade from the saw so you can cut against a flush surface.

Tree Removal Equipment.
- A Nice 20" bar chainsaw, most are 18" from Home Depot, etc. A larger bar can be ordered for
most saws.

- A Chainsaw saw blade sharpening hone. You'll be going thru alot of chains unless you start to
sharpen them yourself. I have about 5 before I clued into sharpening them. Doh!

- A large heavy duty rope/Chain for pulling trees the way you want when there could be a question
as to which way it may go. But be warned that trees are very heavy and shouldn't be pulled in a
direction to far from the way you've cut them to fall or are leaning already. I prefer to cut the tree in
the direction of its lean.

- About 2 steel wedges to pound into the gap your cutting to fell the tree. Otherwise it will lean on
your blade. This also can nudge a stubborn tree to fall the way you want.

- A Sledge hammer.

- A skidsteer with a grapple.

Make sure you read something about cutting trees there's not much to it. But you need to know
how to cut it or else you could get really hurt.

Also you will be left with a ton of branches and debris to grind up count on several days of a large
chipper rental to get rid of this. A 8" chipper is the smallest I'de go to get rid of limbs, etc. Be sure
not to get you clothing caught on any branches because people do occasionally get fed thru a
chipper!

Note: You won't be pushing any tree stumps over if you don't leave plenty of lever to push on. I cut
mine for lumber so I cut close to the ground. Hence I had to dig almost every stump out of the
ground at about 45 to 60 minutes of serious digging with a large CAT digger.